shield To Main Page
 
index
 
info
How to become a Letterhead
How to host a meeting
Upcoming Letterheads Meetings
Steven Parrish — Gold Master
Rick Glawson- Daddy Fine Gold
Frank Atkinson
J.N. Halsted

Tips and Techniques/Various
Hand Lettering Basics
Rawson & Evans
Spanjer Bros. Wood Letters
Buffalo Bill Posters
W.E. Long Co.
Colonial Sign & Insulator Co
Photo Galleries (Misc. Artists)
Glue-Chipped Glass: Info/Sources
Ghost Signs : Ogden, UT

Letterheads Timeline 1982-1993

Hard to Find Sign Supplies List

 
links
American Sign Museum
Signs of the Times
SignCraft Magazine
Sign Business Magazine
Sign Builder Magazine
Auto Art Magazine
The Airbrush Magazine
Letterville Website
SignWeb
International Signs Online
 
BB's
New Hand Lettering Forum
The Orig. Hand Lettering Forum
Letterville Website BB
SignWeb BB
Auto Art Magazine BB
American Sign Museum BB
 
Misc. Addresses
A list of addresses and phone numbers of important businesses and associations which may not have a web site or email. Coming someday
 
contacts
Webmaster
Mailing lists
Denver Chapter
 
Sponsors Button
Golden Era Studios
Letterhead Fonts
QuikPrice
The Fontry
Love Prints by Al Zanetti
Letterhead Sign Supply
Stained Glass Ltd- (Angel Gild Kits)
Sign Letters : Woodland Mfg
 
shield
 Chapters Coast to Coast!
 
Brothers and Sisters of the Brush.
 
Return to the Top of this page
Return to the Main Page

Rick Glawson's Review of the original Glue-Chip Process
(thanks to Larry White for typing up the instructions)


The following instructions are simplified for use as a reference and we recommend the book "The Art of Glue Chipped Glass Signs" by Bob Mitchell, published by Signcraft Magazine.

With your glass masked off and the image to be chipped, cut out and weeded, lightly sandblast with a fine grit (100 to 220 grit is the best range). Level the glass on a bench inside the shop and dam the edges with tape if you plan on chipping the greater portion of the glass surface.

For each one sq.ft. of area to be chipped, measure by weight 1 ½ oz. of dry glue and 3 oz. of water by volume. Mix together in an electric glue pot and cover. Let stand for approx. 30 minutes until the glue has swelled (like oatmeal). At this point, plug in the glue pot until the mixture is heated and runny like soup (approx. 30 minutes). You may also use a double boiler or a microwave oven (in 1 minute bursts) until pourable. Apply a layer of glue onto the glass 1/16" thick overlapping the image. Let it set until the glue cools to the consistency of jello.

Now cut around the image with an x-acto knife and strip off the stencil along with the excess glue. Let the glue dry. A fan lightly blowing will speed up the process. If your humidity is above 45%, the glue will not proceed past the first hard stage. In order to chip glass, the humidity must be below 45%. If you live in a dry climate, this will not concern you. If not you can proceed by putting the project in the sun or on a light box. In very humid areas, an enclosed box with a dehumidifier or heat lamps will do the trick. The main concern is to not let the temperature rise above 150° or you will cook the glue rendering it useless. Do not apply the heat until the glue has completely dried and is transparent.

Allow the glue to chip completely. Small stubborn areas may be chipped off with a razor blade or x-acto knife. Before gilding or silvering, soak the image with water to swell and remove any tiny bits of glue. As a reminder, there are a wide range of animal hide glues manufactured of which most are too strong to effect a constant chip. Most problems arise from using the wrong glue which is why we recommend the 5X grade which we also carry in stock and use ourselves.

Return to the Top of This Page
Return to the Main Page